They’re finally here…the orcas

Text: Lisa Bourgeois, photos: firmm

Anyone who has ever attended a lecture at firmm will know that the Iberian orcas come to the Strait of Gibraltar around July to August. This idea was omnipresent in our volunteer apartment, which is why we had been eagerly and almost religiously following the reported sightings online since the beginning of the month. Almost every day, we observed how the positions of the orca groups slowly approached our location.

On the 18th of July, the time had finally come: our marine biologist José confirmed their arrival and on the same day a three-hour orca-watching trip was scheduled at firmm. Start time: 3.30 pm. The excitement was huge. In order not to miss anything, Maria, Sam and I even decided to take part in the regular excursion beforehand. Although we didn't spot any orcas on this tour, we were able to observe a young pilot whale baby jumping playfully out of the water, so it was definitely worth it.

Back in the harbour, the other firmm members who wanted to join us were already waiting full of anticipation: Maria, Christine, Eva, Antoine, Sam, Sascha and their baby Isolde. The anticipation was written all over their faces and none of them wanted to miss out on the first orca search.

The weather was challenging that day: strong winds, rough seas, high waves. Nevertheless, the atmosphere on board was electric. When it was finally time to board the Spirit, we could hardly contain our excitement. Shortly after leaving the harbour, we spotted a sunfish - ‘Mola Mola!’ we all shouted in chorus, accompanied by astonished looks. And then it happened: José spotted a large, black dorsal fin in the distance. The boat immediately set course and the excitement was palpable.

A few minutes later, the time had come: a small group of orcas appeared in front of us. An indescribable moment. At first, the animals seemed calm and relaxed. After the first enthusiastic shouts of ‘Orca!’ and astonished “Ooohs” and ‘Aahs’, we all fell into an awestruck silence. The sea was rough, but that didn't seem to bother the killer whales as they dived gracefully through the waves, sometimes visible, sometimes just a hint.

We were soon able to observe how one of the orcas had caught a tuna, which caused much amazement on all sides. The animals became more and more active over time, appearing more frequently on the surface, and even a calf could be seen. And then it happened: an orca jumped. High out of the water. We could hardly believe our eyes and the boat crew, consisting of José, the sailors and mechanics Fabi, Eugenio and Jaime, were visibly impressed. We were soon surrounded by orcas: wherever we looked, there was something to observe and marvel at.

More animals began to jump. Our small crew was beside themselves and even the boat crew could hardly believe their eyes. Some of the animals threw themselves to one side, others swam on their backs, slapped the water with their flippers or hit the waves with their flukes. They came closer and closer, one even rolled right next to the boat. Another jumped high out of the water close by, you could almost reach out and touch it. Even baby Isolde whooped with joy and enthusiastically pointed her finger at the spectacle.

For a moment, time seemed to stand still. It felt like a perfectly staged show, but nothing about it was scripted. It's hard to say what the orcas were expressing with their behaviour - but they touched us all deeply. It was far too soon that we had to say goodbye. Although we were allowed to spend a lot of time with the orcas, we found it difficult to let go.

When I think back to that moment today, one feeling remains above all: incredulous amazement. It was hard to process the magic of this experience and even afterwards I realise with surprise and wonder that I was lucky enough to be part of it. That evening I fell asleep with images of leaping orcas in my mind.

A huge thank you goes to Katharina and the whole team at firmm for making this unique, unforgettable experience possible for me.